Textiles in the study room in Mulhouse (the SUD) go back as far as the very late 17th century. Here is an early mounted example, dated 1765, and manufactured in Switzerland.

Page dated 1770, Haussmann Manufactory.

The small label at the right translates: "Wood Block Impression. Colorant and Mordant Prussian Blue."

Enlargement of the sticker from previous fabric image.

The following images represent pre-1800 fabrics, most are from the Haussmann Manufactory.

This fabric is dated, 1777.

C 1775-1795

C 1775-1795

C 1775-1795

Early Indienne - C 1780

Early Chintz, last quarter 18th Century

Indienne - last quarter 18th Century

Chintz - C 1800

Indienne - C 1780

Dated 1793

Note the incredibly deep and bright pink on this fabric.

Dated 1793

Dated 1788-1795

Rendering on paper - dated 1790.

Several sample books contain the original artist's renderings.

Sample book - Dated 1795. The following 7 images of "Indiennes" are from this sample book.

Documentation of following fabrics.

This placard dates the fabrics in the associated book 1760-1790 and 1815.

What was amazing about this book was the scale of the fabrics - and the coloration. Black was used as an integral part of many designs. The curator believes the disparity in the date range is because the fabrics were "re-issued" during this time frame.

C 1760-1790 and 1815

C 1760-1790 and 1815

C 1760-1790 and 1815

C 1760-1790 and 1815

Late 18th century - probably from a shawl.

Another late 18th century shawl fragment.

Two-color Toile de Jouy from the Oberkampf Factory, late 18th century.

One of the more interesting discoveries was the colors used at the beginning of the 19th century.

This sample book contained prints with vivid greens, bright oranges and pinks, and was truly an eye opener to what we had leared in the past about color pertaining to fabric dating.

From 1800-1810 book.

From 1800-1810 book.

From 1800-1810 book.

Sample Book, dated 1815-1820

Again, the samples in this book were a real eye opener with regard to color and overall motif. The following images are examples of many fabrics of similar motif and color found in this volume.

Dated 1815-1820

Dated 1815-1820

Dated 1815-1820

Dated 1815-1820

Dated 1815-1820

First quarter 18th century Turkey Reds.

There are literally 1000s of different motifs printed in this style. Most everyone on our tour gasped to see the incredible variety of Turkey Red Prints.

The inside cover of this sample book dates its fabrics 1825 to 1830. The next two images are examples found in this book.

One of the biggest surprises was to find black prints on Turkey Red as early as 1825.

C 1815, this print also shows red and black with bright yellow. This colorway was very popular among French printers between 1810 and 1820.

Sample book - dated 1878-1836.

Geschenk was a large manufactory in Mulhouse and there are many sample books bearing this name in the SUD. This particular one refers to some of the samples as Indiennes, most were ombre prints in the styles which follow. The curator explained that the term Indiennes was used interchangably for several styles during this period.

From the Geschenk book.

Similar style from the Geschenk book, 1828-1836.

Again From the Geschenk book 1828-1836.

These greens are truly incredible.

More Geschenk green ombres.

One can block print fabric and take it home in the Museum of Printed Textiles, Mulhouse

Many exhibits with the Museum of Printed Textiles depict the dyeing and printing processes.

This and the following images were taken at the Museum of the Chateau Gombert just outside of Marseilles.

This museum was incredible and contained costumes and other textiles including Boutis and piqué. They freely allowed photography to our delight.

This batons-rombus print is from the Oberkampf Manufactory and dates C 1800.

Close up of the previous fabric.

Quilted Petticoats - Jupons.

Exhibit of 19th century quilts and printed fabric. Chateau Gombert.

Detail of quilted jupon - Chateau Gombert

C 1790 and 1815. An incredible fabric design - originally printed by Oberkampf - then later copied by Provencial manufactories.

"Bonne-Herbes" was a favorite style of print among Provencial women. It is characterized by black and green foilge grounds and bright colorful naturaliztic florals. It was first created by Oberkampf in the late 18th century and was popular for a span of many years. Later, in the early part of the 19th century it was

re-issued and also copied by other manufacturers. There are many motifs printed in the Bonne-Herbes style.

Boutis lap quilt. A mother would have the small quilt on her lap when she held her child to prevent soiling of her garment.

Quilts of the Chateau Gombert.

Quilt Detail - Chateau Gombert.

The Souleiado Museum - Tarascon.

The Quilt room in the Souleiado has about 75 19th century quilts hanging freely on open exhibit. Quilts are found throughout the rooms of this museum which traces the history of Indienne printing in France.

Costume - Souleiado Museum

Costume - Souleiado Museum

Show and Tell

One of the favorite days on the tour was the day spent in L'isle sur la Sorgue. Even though this town is known as one of the antique centers of Europe we planned the visit for market day when there are also antique vendors (among others) who set up to sell on the streets.

We were not disappointed! The following images are of a portion of our show and tell - just a sampling of the treasures found by the group in L'isle sur la Sorgue.

Someone was lucky enough to find a whole cloth quilt made from Bonnes Herbes fabric!

Ah - a quilt made from a mouchoir (scarf or handkerchief).

All in all on my computer there are about 2500 images taken while in France - this has been a sampling of the many things there for quilt and textile historians to enjoy.